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When you are choosing a tree for your garden, you should be mindful of the height and spread of the tree once it has finished growing. If you make the wrong decision, your tree may well become crowded and in most suburban gardens the appearance will be ruined. This is especially so with specimen trees, so resist the temptation to purchase that lovely looking tree from the catalog until you are certain of its suitability for your garden.

The most inexpensive way is to plant trees whilst they are still young. A more mature tree is much more expensive and can be extremely difficult to position, often requiring professional help. If you do really need a big tree immediately as in the case of hiding an eyesore or for privacy from prying neighbors, then it may be worth the expense. You should understand that what you are purchasing when you choose a mature tree is the time it has taken to grow.

There are products that will allow you to transplant a large tree whilst it is fully leaved. They seal the leaves to prevent moisture loss and reduce transplant shock, allowing the roots to develop a purchase in the soil. It is expensive, though and the tree can still suffer. It is better to plant a tree in early spring or winter whilst it is still dormant. A tree over 6 feet will benefit from having its rootball wrapped in sackcloth or placed in a large container before it is put into its new position.

Correct soil preparation is essential for the health of the tree. The soil must be fertile and a hole dug at least 2 feet in depth and 1 foot wider in diameter than the root spread. Any compacted soil at the bottom of the hole should be broken up with a fork and mixed with soil conditioning matter such as loam, peat or leaf mold.

Do not place manure or other fertilizer into the hole as it will burn the roots. Instead, it should be spread over the top of the hole once the tree is in position, to allow the nutrients to leech into the soil. Make sure that the hole is free from building detritus or clay and if necessary, “import” good quality garden soil to replace it. This is important, because once the tree is in position, you will not be able to treat the soil under the root system.

If the tree you are planting is a seedling that is not containered or wrapped in cloth, it is advisable to use a procedure known as “heeling in” to keep it whilst it is dormant. This means that you simply place the dormant plant on its side in an unused part of the garden, covering the roots with soil. Be sure that when the time comes to plant the seedling on, you give the roots a thorough “mud bath”, to prevent any air from damaging the root system.

Settle any loose soil at the base of the hole by “flooding ” it and allow the water to drain. Place the tree in the hole and backfill around it with soil. Once the plant it in position and the hole is filled to its required depth, “flood” the area with water again as this will assist in removing any air pockets. Ensure that the roots are spread evenly around the diameter of the hole before this. Firming down the soil is important, but don’t overcompact it as this will prevent water from reaching the root system.

Many nurseries grow specimen trees in heavy loam that has been wrapped in a type of sack known as burlap. This is called “balled-and-burlapped”. Such a specimen needs to be planted at a slightly lower level than in the sacking. Soil preparation is as before with the hole dug approximately twice the size of the root ball. The tree should be planted as soon as it is partly unwrapped. If the soil in the hole is dry, thoroughly soak it and allow it to drain away before the tree is planted. It is not necessary to remove the burlap completely as it will eventually rot away, although approximately 3-4 inches should be cut and pulled away from the top.

In plant care it is advisable to cut back some of the growth from the tree when it has been planted. Usually, this is about one-third of the growth. Most trees like the Dracaena requires some form of supporting structure to prevent wind damage, but this should not be so tight as to cause damage to the limbs.

Cultivating the soil around the trunk during the first year should be done regularly, taking care to remove any weeds and cover the bare soil around the trunk with mulch and manure, taking care that it does not come into contact with the trunk. The mulch suppresses weeds and in turn helps with moisture retention.